Volume 95, Issue 47

Friday, November 23, 2001
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Tallman: a virtual success

Disc of the Week

Spageddy Eddy's knows pasta

Shits and Giggles

Kravitz wears no ice on his wrists

More like "Matthew Bad Band"

Spageddy Eddy's knows pasta

Spageddy Eddy's

428 Richmond St.
Three 1/2 stars
(out of five)

By Molly Duignan
Gazette Staff

Spageddy Eddy's is a minimalist's nightmare.

Nestled quietly in an alley off Richmond Street, the proprietors of Spageddy Eddy's have managed to use every inch of the restaurant's square footage to create an unrivaled beatnik hideaway.

Though Jack Kerouac may not have intended the genre of writing he inspired to become a method of decor, the ambiance of rustic Spageddy's is what keeps an otherwise simple meal alive.

The restaurant is covered – wall to wall, ceiling to floor – with items some might call junk. Even the bar is buried beneath a layer of old license plates. With log pillars, beams and hardwood floors, Spageddy Eddy's definitely has a rustic, woodsy feel.

Though classic rock tunes may play in the background, one can't help but feel they've invaded the space of a mountaineer's log cabin. Only the glimpse of brick walls and barred windows remind one they're actually in the city.

Upon first glance of the menu, which is pasted onto unique old-school record covers, will reveal the most expensive item at Spageddy's is $10.95. Do not be deceived by these deals.

Yes, you will receive a HUGE bowl of pasta. Yes, if you order a large drink with this large pasta, you may feel you've been dwarfed by the super-sized proportions.

But as you walk out the doors of Spageddy's gallery of hidden treasures, you may also feel your stuffed tummy could have been equally filled for about $8 less.

Technically, all Spageddy Eddy's offers is generic pasta and sauce with only occasional flare. But, no one is trying to disguise this because Spageddy Eddy's doesn't claim to be anything more.

There are few specials, no dessert options, no wheelchair access, a limited liquor menu and no reservations for parties less than six.

With only two chefs and a staff of eight, you may feel like you're getting a deal, but it would be illegal for such an establishment to charge more for what is offered.

For starters, Spageddy's offers "Beginners only" and "Tummy tamers." Garlic bread comes with the meal, originally lowered from the ceiling by a bucket on a pulley.

A different starter to try is the Saganaki, a traditional Greek favourite. This comes as pan-fried Greek kasseri cheese doused with fresh lemons served sizzling hot.

The obvious token item on the menu, the Spageddy, is average. In order for someone to believe they're getting their money's worth, Spageddy Eddy's needs to give a little more.

The Maza-Maza Eddy is better. Veggie and alfredo sauces mixed together to create a light blush and served over a choice of fettucini or spageddy noodles, this dish is a smooth, creamy treat.

The "Oodles of Noodles" section warns that portions cannot be shared in order to maintain their affordable prices. All this policy maintains is a constant demand for doggy bags, as finishing one of the giant bowls is pretty tough.

For what it is, Spageddy Eddy's is a decent eatery. Though it is "maximalist" in practice, this restaurant is minimalist in theory: nothing more, nothing less.

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Copyright The Gazette 2001